Growing lavender from seed can be difficult, especially for new gardeners. But once you learn how, you will have better success!
In this post, I’ll show you everything you need to know about when and how to plant lavender seeds, step by step.
If you struggle to successfully grow lavender from seed, you are not alone.
When it comes to growing your own seeds, this is one of the most difficult to get the hang of. I get asked about it all the time.
Starting lavender seeds requires some extra steps, plus a few that may seem counterintuitive. It’s definitely tricky and needs some practice.
Don’t worry, I’ve got you covered! In this detailed step by step guide, I will give you all of my tips and techniques for the best results possible.
You’ll learn exactly how to plant lavender seeds step by step, and get details about caring for the seedlings to ensure success.
Table of Contents
Growing Lavender From Seed
While sometimes problematic, successfully growing lavender from seed is really rewarding once you know how long it will take, and the best methods to use.
Types Of Lavender Seeds To Grow
In general, there are three main types of lavender seeds you can grow: English, Spanish, or French. But these days, there are also some great hybrids to choose from.
A few of my favorites are Hidcote dwarf, Munstead, and Provence blue. Don’t worry, the instructions below will work no matter which type you choose.
Related Post: How To Collect Lavender Seeds From Your Garden
Recommended Lavender Seed Starting Methods
The best method to use for growing lavender from seed is to start them indoors. They can take a long time to germinate, and tend to sprout unevenly.
Keeping them inside in a controlled environment will give you the most consistent germination rate.
Of course, you could try direct sowing them. They’re also a great candidate for winter sowing, since they do require cold stratification. So go ahead and experiment to see which method works for you.
Related Post: 3 Seed Starting Methods That Every Gardener Should Try
How Long From Seed To Harvest
When you grow lavender from seed, it takes a year for them to bloom to their full potential. They can flower lightly the first year, and you may get a few buds from them.
Then they should come into full bloom by their second season, giving you tons of delicious smelling flowers to enjoy.
Related Post: How To Harvest Lavender Fresh From The Garden
Planting Lavender Seeds
Successfully planting lavender seeds requires some special tricks. These cold hardy seeds need a bit of extra help in order to germinate. But don’t worry, it’s easier than you think.
When To Start Lavender Seeds
Plant lavender seeds indoors 10-12 weeks before your average last frost date. If you want to direct sow them, you should do that in very early spring, as soon as the ground is workable.
You could also try planting them in your garden in late fall, so they will sprout in the spring. Or winter sow them as soon as the temps stay below freezing in your area.
Preparing Lavender Seeds For Planting
In order to germinate, lavender seeds need a period of cool temperatures called “cold stratification”.
If you skip this step, you may still have success. But most likely, you’ll see a very low germination rate.
The easiest way to cold stratify lavender seeds is to place them in moist soil, then put them into the refrigerator for 3-6 weeks before planting.
How To Plant Lavender Seeds Step-By-Step
Planting lavender seeds takes a little bit more planning than other types of flowers. To really set yourself up for success, gather all of your supplies ahead of time.
Supplies Needed:
- Seeds
- Seed trays with lids
- Seed starting soil or peat pellets
- Hand trowel
- Water
- Grow light (recommended)
- Soil thermometer (optional)
Step 1: Prepare the soil – If you plan to use pellets, moisten them before placing them into the seed trays. Otherwise, fill the plastic cells with the soil mix.
Step 2: Decide how many seeds to plant – Since they tend to germinate unevenly, I recommend planting 2-3 lavender seeds per hole or pellet.
If you’re direct sowing them outside, space them in groupings about 2″ apart, and thin them to 18″ later on.
Step 3: Plant the seeds – Since they need light to germinate, I prefer to drop my lavender seeds on top of the soil and leave them there.
You can cover them with a thin layer of dirt if you prefer, but take care that they aren’t more than 1/8″ deep.
Step 4: Water the soil – If it’s not already damp, then water the soil until it’s evenly moist.
It’s a good idea to water the trays from the bottom, rather than over the top, to avoid displacing the tiny seeds.
Step 5: Cover the trays – Put the plastic dome lid on top of the trays. This will help to keep the soil moist during germination.
Step 6: Give them plenty of light – Place them in a bright location, or turn on the grow lights. Remember, they need light in order to germinate, so give them plenty of sunshine if you don’t have a plant light.
Step 7 (optional): Monitor the temperature – Ideally, you should keep the soil between 60-65F degrees for the best germination rate. Use a soil thermometer to monitor the temperature.
Lavender Germination Time
As I have already mentioned a few times, lavender seeds are extremely slow to germinate. Some are a bit faster (2-3 weeks), but most can take a month or more to sprout, so be patient.
It’s also important to note that germination tends to be very uneven. You’ll probably notice that some will sprout faster than others. This is normal, so don’t give up on the slow pokes too soon.
What Do Lavender Seedlings Look Like?
The first two leaves that form right after germination are called the “seed leaves”. They are slightly oval shaped, and rounded on the ends.
Everything that grows after that are called the “true leaves”, and they look exactly like tiny baby lavender leaves.
How To Care For Lavender Seedlings
The success of growing lavender seeds also depends on caring for the seedlings properly. Once your seeds have sprouted, it’s important to give them lots of light and nutrients.
Light
After germinating, the seedlings can get leggy very fast. So keep your grow light 1-2″ above them at all times. A sunny window won’t be good enough to prevent legginess.
Water
It’s important to keep the soil evenly moist, but never soggy. I recommend using a soil moisture gauge to get it just right.
Fertilizer
Lavender prefers nutrient-poor soil, so you don’t need to worry about fertilizing your seedlings. In fact, too much fertilizer can stunt their growth and cause other problems. So you can skip it.
Potting Up
After they are twice the height of the seed tray, pot them up into deeper containers. I like plantable pots, but you could certainly use plastic ones if you prefer.
Transplanting Lavender Seedlings Into The Garden
It’s best to wait until all chance of frost is gone before transplanting lavender seedlings into the garden. Also, wait until they are at least 2-3″ tall for best results.
But, before you can do that, you must acclimate them to living outside. If you skip this step, then they probably won’t survive the move.
FAQs
Since growing lavender from seed can be unpredictable, you may still have a few questions. Here are answers to some of the most common ones I get. If you can’t find an answer to your question here, ask it in the comments below.
How many lavender seeds do I plant per hole?
Since they are usually unpredictable, I recommend planting 2-3 lavender seeds per hole, pellet, or seed cell. If more than one grows, you can thin them out later.
How deep do you plant lavender seeds?
Since lavender seeds need light to germinate, you should not plant them very deep. Just cover them lightly with soil, but no more than 1/8″ deep.
Why aren’t my lavender seeds germinating?
When lavender seeds don’t germinate, it can be caused by several things. The soil was too warm or wet, they were planted too deep, didn’t get enough light, or the seeds were old and no longer viable.
For best results, give them plenty of light during germination. Also make sure the soil temperature is between 60-65F (using a soil thermometer), and that it stays consistently moist.
Do you need to stratify lavender seeds?
Though it’s not absolutely required, I do recommend that you take the time to cold stratify lavender seeds before planting them. Doing this will give you the best possible germination rate.
Growing lavender from seed can be tricky, but it’s incredibly rewarding. It takes time and patience, but having a bunch of lavender seedlings to plant in your yard will make you feel great about your hard work.
Up next: Learn exactly how to care for lavender plants here.
Are you tired of struggling to figure out how to grow your seeds by trial and error? Then you should take my Seed Starting Course. It’s a fun and comprehensive online course that will walk you through everything you need to know in order to successfully grow any plant you want from seeds. Sign up and get started right now!
Otherwise, if you’re just looking for a quick refresher to get going fast, then my Starting Seeds Indoors eBook is what you need. Download your copy here.
More About Growing Seeds
- How To Grow Parsley From Seed: Step-By-Step
- How To Grow Basil From Seed: Complete Guide
- How To Grow Tomatillos From Seed & When To Plant
- How To Grow An Avocado Tree From Seed
More Posts About Lavender
- How To Dry Lavender From Your Garden
- Pruning Lavender: A Step-By-Step Guide
- How To Propagate Lavender Plant Cuttings
Share your tips for how to grow lavender from seeds in the comments section below.
Print The Step By Step Instructions
How To Grow Lavender From Seed
Planting lavender seeds takes a little bit more planning than other types of flowers. To really set yourself up for success, gather all your supplies ahead of time, and follow these easy instructions.
Materials
Instructions
- Prepare the soil - Moisten the peat pellets before placing them into the seed trays, or fill the plastic cells with seed starting soil.
- Decide how many seeds to plant - Indoors, plant 2-3 lavender seeds per hole or pellet. Outside, space them in groupings about 2" apart, and thin them to 18" later.
- Plant the seeds - Drop the seeds on top of the soil. You can cover them with a thin layer of dirt, but make sure they aren't more than 1/8" deep.
- Water the soil - Add water the trays, rather than pouring it over the top, to avoid displacing the tiny seeds.
- Cover the trays - Put the plastic dome lid on top of the trays to keep the soil moist during germination.
- Give them plenty of light - Place the trays in a bright location, or turn on the grow lights. Remember, they need light in order to germinate, so give them plenty.
- Monitor the temperature - Keep the soil between 60-65F degrees for the best germination rate. Use a soil thermometer to monitor the temperature.
Lea Paradiso says
I am trying to grow lavender. For a year now. I planted about 20 in trays and I live in Arizona so it gets full sun and they grew to about centimeter and got like three to four of their true little Spike leaves and then stopped growing until about this summer and then they grew about to be 2 in and then died this August. I fertilized them I watered them properly and they got the full sun. They were just extremely slow growing and I tried transplanting it from one pot grabbing a huge dirt ball around it so I wouldn’t destroy the root system and it still died. I have one surviving out of 20 and it’s crispy. I want so desperately to save it because it’s taken a year for it to grow to 2 in. Help me!
Amy Andrychowicz says
The reason your lavender seedlings aren’t growing may be from too much fertilizer and/or the wrong type of soil. They like poor quality soils that are alkaline and don’t contain a lot of nutrients. So if your seedlings are in a nutrient-rich and/or acidic soil and/or you fertilize often, that may be why they’re struggling. Also, the sun in Arizona is much more intense than other parts of the country. So the full sun exposure may be too strong for the delicate seedlings. I would try giving them some protection from the sun during the afternoon to see if that helps. If you want to plant more lavender seeds, add some sand and/or perlite to the potting mix to improve the drainage, or you could even try germinating them in vermiculite or perlite alone to see if you have better success. Good luck!
Katherine says
I put my lavendar seeds in the fridge on a wet paper towel in a shallow plastic container with a lid. I left them in the firdge for about 6 months, possibly more than that. To my surprise I think just about every seed germinated. I now have roughly 400 seedlings growing strongly! My only issue is the huge number of pots and where to put them all. 😀
Amy Andrychowicz says
Haha, that’s a good problem to have! Thanks for sharing your wildly successful experience with growing your lavender seeds, that’s very cool!
GLYN says
Hi,
have no problem getting the lavender to start growing, but then they just get too long and leggy before I can transplant, not like the photo you have of a young plant, mine has about 2 inches of leggy growth with no leaves, just leaves on the top which makes it top heavy, any help would be grateful,
Amy Andrychowicz says
Lavender seedlings need a LOT of light in order to stay compact, otherwise they will get leggy like you describe. A sunny window isn’t enough, it’s best to have a grow light, hang it a few inches above the seedlings, and leave it on for 12-16 hours/day.
Mariana S. says
Are there different seed colors for different lavender types? I’ve seen only black lavender seeds online for stoechas and vera online, but I have lavandula dentata at home. I shook the seeds out of some flowers and they were a light beige like smaller sesame seeds.
I just want to know if there might be something wrong with my seeds and I’d be wasting my time trying to germinate them or if that is simply what dentata seeds like.
I live in a 9a hot and dry California climate and that species thrives and literally blooms year round on my front porch from scorching summer heat to light frost. I’d like to make more so I can share them.
Amy Andrychowicz says
Humm… I’m not sure if all types of lavender seeds are the same color. If they dropped out of the seed pods easily, then I would expect them to be viable. But you could perform a quick viability test to be sure, before you spend time planting them.
Mariana S. says
Okay, so I searched around and found a single picture of L. Dentata’s seeds next to the flowers and both look exactly like mine. Who knew?
So that said, do you know if they need stratification? They seem to be good for, at most, zones 8 to 10. With that range, there is no consistent winter frost or necessarily regular temperatures even in the 30s at night, let alone during the day. And so I wonder if it would make sense that it would be necessary for germination.
This is the first time I’ve had a garden somewhere cold enough in winter to kill a tropical plant. I was in previously 9b and 10 so this is all a bit new to me.
Amy Andrychowicz says
Cool, thanks so much for coming back and letting me know. Since they are a warm weather variety of lavender, then the seeds don’t need cold stratification in order to germinate. It certainly wouldn’t hurt to put them into your fridge for a few weeks if you want to experiment, but I wouldn’t try freezing them or they could die.
Lisa Widner says
Thank you for sharing your precise methods for growing lavender from seed, it will help me be successful.
Amy Andrychowicz says
You’re welcome, hope your lavender seeds will grow well for you! 🙂
Stephen E Thompson says
Can I plant my Spanish Lavender seeds in the fall in trays and let them grow all winter in the trays so that I have larger plants to put in the ground in the spring?
Amy Andrychowicz says
Yes, you can grow lavender indoors through the winter. Here’s a post with some tips for success… How To Grow Herbs Indoors.
Cheryl says
I just scattered the seeds in an undivided tray, watered from bottom, covered with plastic, and set out on a table outside on my porch. That was May 18, 2022. Today I have a single one sprouted. Should I leave it where it is until it’s 2-3″ tall, or gently remove the one to it’s own little pot and set out in sun beside my mature plant – to give it more heat and sun? Mine are all going to be container plants because we’ve been having some really wet winters lately, so I move the one I have indoors. Thanks
Amy Andrychowicz says
I would not try potting up you baby lavender seedling until it’s 2-3″ tall, or you could end up killing it. When it’s taller, there are more roots, so they can handle being transplanted. Brand new seedlings only have one root, and if that gets damaged, it’s really difficult for the seedling to survive. Good luck!